Chanel’s Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture Show: A Farewell Wrapped in Feathers, Tweed, and Timeless Grace
Chanel’s Fall-Winter 2025/26 couture show offers a nostalgic nod to its roots with earthy tones, feathers, and timeless silhouettes.
Chanel Fall-Winter 2025/26 Couture Show
In the hushed, mirrored halls of the Grand Palais’ Salon d’Honneur, Chanel transported the fashion world into a dreamscape drawn from its most intimate roots. The Fall-Winter 2025/26 Haute Couture collection, presented Tuesday in Paris, was more than just a showcase—it was a whispered homage to legacy, a quiet farewell to an era, and a preview of the maison’s uncertain but exhilarating future.
This season’s couture show was conceived by Chanel’s in-house design studio, marking a rare moment of collective authorship following Virginie Viard’s departure. With Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy poised to take the reins later this year, this transitional moment unfolded with gentle dignity, rather than spectacle.
A Salón Reimagined
The venue itself was a story. The set recreated Chanel’s historic couture salon at 31 Rue Cambon, complete with beige carpets, mirrored staircases, and ribbon-like architectural motifs floating above the runway—an ode to the black satin bows Coco Chanel favored. Designed by creative director Willo Perron, the space evoked the quiet luxury that defines Chanel, inviting guests to witness couture in its purest, most personal setting.
The collection drew inspiration from the wind-swept moors of the English countryside—a muse that married rustic charm with Chanel’s timeless sophistication. Earthy tones—moss green, heather gray, ivory, and soft chestnut—dominated the palette, anchored by the brand’s beloved winter whites and blacks.
Tweed, ever a Chanel signature, took center stage. But here, it was softer, brushed into mohair-like textures, occasionally layered with feathers or rendered into knit-like constructions that blurred the lines between coziness and couture. Oversized coats and sharply tailored suits reimagined menswear codes with an aristocratic yet comfortable twist.
A recurring motif—the wheat ear—wove through the collection as embroidery, jewelry, and even bridal detail. A symbol of prosperity and abundance, it served as a poetic nod to Coco’s superstitions and deep attachment to personal symbolism.
Despite the absence of a singular designer’s hand, the collection never felt directionless. In fact, the restraint was refreshing. There were no attempts to shock or reinvent—only to reaffirm. Lace was used sparingly but elegantly. Capes and hooded gowns fluttered in silk chiffon, catching light like whispers. Hand-beaded florals, feathers on sleeves, and delicate pleats paid tribute to the maisons of Lesage and Lemarié, whose craftsmanship remains at the heart of Chanel’s haute couture.
While critics may debate whether the show lacked a strong auteur’s voice, what it offered instead was a profound sense of continuity. This wasn’t a revolution—it was a curtain call. An ensemble-crafted finale that gave the Chanel woman room to breathe before Matthieu Blazy’s arrival, expected to shake the codes with his own poetic rigor.
For now, Chanel remains in safe, reverent hands. The Fall-Winter 2025/26 show reminded us that haute couture isn’t always about reinvention—it’s about remembrance, repetition, and refinement.
The Front Row Whispers
Celebrities and muses filled the front row—Naomi Campbell, Keira Knightley, Penélope Cruz, Sofia Coppola, and Lorde—all draped in black-and-white, matching the maison’s eternal palette. Cameras flashed, but the vibe remained quiet, even meditative.
In a world where fashion often races forward, Chanel’s latest couture moment dared to pause.