What Does Tretinoin Do? Understanding the Gold Standard of Retinoids

Tretinoin is a dermatologist-approved skincare ingredient that treats acne, fine lines, and pigmentation. Learn how to use it effectively and safely for long-term skin improvement.

What Does Tretinoin Do? Understand this magic Retinoid to transform your skin.
What Does Tretinoin Do? Understand this magic Retinoid to transform your skin.

For decades, dermatologists have held one ingredient in particular high regard: Tretinoin. Originally developed as an acne medication in the 1960s, this potent vitamin A derivative has grown into a multifaceted solution for everything from breakouts to fine lines. But what exactly does tretinoin do, and why has it become a non-negotiable in so many skincare routines?

Recently, British Vogue took a deep dive into this very question, highlighting its transformative powers and the science behind its long-standing reputation. Let’s break it down.

What Is Tretinoin, Exactly?

Tretinoin is a topical retinoid, meaning it’s part of the vitamin A family. Unlike over-the-counter retinols, which require conversion by the skin before becoming active, tretinoin is bioavailable immediately, making it faster and more effective.

According to the British Vogue article, this immediacy is what sets tretinoin apart. It doesn’t just sit on the skin; it actively accelerates cellular turnover, shedding dead skin cells and prompting the growth of newer, healthier ones.

Why Do People Use Tretinoin?

Tretinoin, Understanding the Gold Standard of Retinoids
Tretinoin, Understanding the Gold Standard of Retinoids

Originally formulated for acne, tretinoin unclogs pores, reduces inflammation, and prevents future breakouts. But that’s just one side of its resume.

With consistent use, tretinoin:

  • Reduces fine lines and wrinkles by boosting collagen
  • Fades dark spots and post-acne marks
  • Improves skin texture and minimizes roughness
  • Even out skin tone for a more luminous complexion

It’s no wonder that British Vogue dubbed it the “gold standard” of skincare ingredients.

What to Expect When You Start Using Tretinoin

Here's the honest truth: Tretinoin is powerful, and your skin may not love it at first.

The initial few weeks (often referred to as the “retinoid purge”) can involve peeling, dryness, redness, and sensitivity. This is your skin adjusting to the increased rate of exfoliation.

British Vogue’s experts recommend starting slow. Apply it every third night at first, gradually increasing frequency as your skin acclimates. Pairing it with a moisturizer can buffer irritation, while a strong, broad-spectrum SPF during the day is non-negotiable—your skin will be more sensitive to sunlight.

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Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Use Tretinoin?

Tretinoin works well for:

  • Acne-prone individuals
  • People with early signs of aging
  • Those dealing with pigmentation issues or sun spots

However, it’s not for everyone. People with very sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, or those who are pregnant or breastfeeding should speak to a dermatologist before starting. It’s a prescription product in many countries, which means proper guidance is key.

Pairing Tretinoin with Other Skincare Products

When on tretinoin, less is more.

To avoid overwhelming your skin, avoid layering strong actives like AHAs, BHAs, or benzoyl peroxide unless instructed by a professional. Use a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturizer, and don’t forget the sunscreen.

As Vogue’s skincare contributor noted, the success of tretinoin lies not just in using it, but in using it wisely.

The Verdict

Tretinoin isn’t a trendy new ingredient—it’s a time-tested treatment with decades of research behind it. From battling breakouts to smoothing fine lines, its benefits are hard to beat.

It’s not a quick fix, but for those who stick with it, tretinoin often becomes a forever product in their routine. As British Vogue aptly put it, “If retinol is the rookie, tretinoin is the seasoned pro.”

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